Travel: Anything is Possible!

 October 20, 2025

The retreat wrapped up one week ago. Since then I've been enjoying time with my Costa Rica grandchildren and their mother and father. We have been getting into the local vibe. Finding the butcher shop, grocery store, and more importantly, a soccer field and playground for the kids. We rise after 9 am, a late afternoon siesta, and, like the Italians, eat dinner after 7 pm. Bedtime gets pushed later and later by two squirrely kids who beg for more time to play outside or watch favorite programs. 

I've been enjoying cooking as is my usual past-time at home. Stores are only open mornings and close between 2-4:30 pm. Food prices are extremely reasonable especially the cheeses. Meat must be purchased in the butcher store. Farmacies are small and also separate.  I've cooked soups and a large pot of meat sauce that has fed us several meals. Pasta, ravioli, and other pasta variations have been topped with this sauce that improves as it ages. To say I'm tired of pasta would be an understatement. 

One night we were invited to Giuseppe (truffle hunter) and Valeria's house for dinner. They live down a long, single lane unpaved road. Their house is a modest two story made of stone as is the case with all the homes in Tuscany. Valeria had set a beautiful table near a roaring fire. 

Many bottles of wine were in the center of the table and glasses were constantly filled .  The first course was a common offering we've been given a few times now. It is a plate of toasts each with different toppings. One with pate, another with truffle- mushroom spread, and one with chopped tomatoes, and also a slice of melon with prosciutto.  Next came salad, then pasta with truffle sauce, followed by an egg and truffle dish, and then thinly sliced pork and French fries. Dessert was a delicious tiramisu.  We were way over fed, tired and miserable as we departed well after 10 pm. We realize that we are not cut out for "typical Italian feasts."

This town, Luciano Niccone (30 minutes from Cortona) has less than a thousand inhabitants.  We rarely see children. Most little towns that surround this area are like ghost towns, shutters closed, no one seems home. It is strange not to see anyone out on a bright sunny day. If it weren't for the tiny Fiats, VWs and Smart cars parked on the roads we'd believe the town was devoid of life. Unless you are in a large city, such as Montepuciano, you see very few who are younger than retirement age. 

We've taken to the country roads. Enjoyed the iconic Umbria-Tuscan beauty of green rolling hills,  scattered farm houses, wineries and vineyards. Today, after an highly recommended brunch held out under the trees full of falling leaves, we were treated to a buffet of food that, while tasty, did not seem to have a theme. There was a large bowl of meatballs in a red sauce but no pasta to put it on. Many varied platters of greens that to me seemed over cooked. It was a hearty, heavy array of food  and the locals loved it. 

From there we decided to take a Sunday drive up to a small village.  We drove up a narrow, winding paved road into the hills. The views were spectacular.  However, along the side of the road for a mile or so we're cars parked and hunters wearing came and orange vests were emerging with loaded guns. We guessed that it must be time to hunt for deer as they are plentiful in this region.  After a short visit to the tiny deserted village on the top of the hill, we descended into a barrage of gunfire. At one point a doe jumped the bank, skidded across the pavement in front of our car, and dove into the bushes on the opposite side of the road. We were lucky not to hit her. Our hearts were heavy (as we're our stomachs) believing she and others were their target. 

However,  during our evening walk we had an opportunity to talk to an neighbor woman who lives down the hill from us. She (Doris) filled us in on a few things. "What were they hunting" we asked. "Wild boar" She responded "They are way over populated and so they hunt them." "Why aren't there people in the little town on top of the hill?" Doris responded in very good English,  "I've lived here 30 years and that town use to be very popular especially now in the fall. Every year there was a Chestnut Festival there but in the past two they stopped it. It was too big and the locals were moving away. That town has very few inhabitants now." Then Page added that she wondered what people do for exercise.  Doris said she goes to a pilates classes a couple times a week. Then she invited Page to go with her tomorrow evening.  Page accepted with out question. Then we told her that Page is a Pilates teacher in Costa Rica here to lead two retreats. Doris seemed intrigued and suggested perhaps she might like to join one of her classes. It was a lovely encounter and such a wonderful coincidence.  Pilates,   in a fairly dead town, who would have guessed!

It is time to return home. I've been gone a month. It was fun to be in London on my own. I could definitely return as there is so much more to explore. Northern Italy was a treat. It is beautiful in  the lake region.  Tuscany definitely lives up to its hype. Rolling hills, Cypress lined roads, wineries around every corner. 

But it is time to go back to simple food and small portions. It is time to enjoy the warm fall weather of San Diego and embrace my partner and catch up on his news. I look forward to spending time with my son and his family. There will be chilly evenings watching my grandsons play football and time to plan holiday dinners. Thank you for following me on this wonderful trip.